Sorry for the lack of updates. My bike has been down so I thought I’d write up one piece of my ongoing saga of getting a 50,000 mile Ducati running.
First, some background. I had a strange problem where I would pull the clutch in, then if I was sitting at a light the bike would start creeping forward and then stall. If quickly pulled the clutch for normal shifting, everything was fine.
I popped off the clutch slave cylinder and found this:
Initial diagnosis from Ducati Monster Forum and LT Snyder was the clutch push rod spun the piston and fried the o-rings. A rebuild kit would not solve the main problem (never mind that rebuild kits are non-existent because Evoluzione went out of business). I specifically bought this slave because it had a bearing in the piston to keep the rod from spinning it, but whatever.
Recommendation was to replace the throwout bearing and replace the slave. Went to my local Ducati dealer to get new orings for the pushrod and inquire about the throwout bearing and a new clutch pack. The bearing was $62.95. New clutch pack is $360. Way too much for the bearing, even the parts guy said I could probably find it online for $15-20. $360 for the clutch pack which I don’t have the money for right now.
I poked around online and found a local bearing company, VXB Ball Bearings, who had what I needed for less than $4. Yes, that’s right. $4. I bought two of them for $7 and change, and picked them up at their office over by Angel Stadium.
So then.. onto the work.
1- Remove the belt covers and unplug the sensor on the side cover
2 – Get a piece of cardboard. Remove one of the side cover bolts with a 5mm hex. Punch a hole in the cardboard in the approximate position of the bolt you removed. Repeat this process for the remainder of the bolts. You will probably need a combination of socket extensions or ball end hex sockets to get some of them.
You need to do this cardboard step because you will find that the bolts are different sizes. Maybe you could remember what goes where, but I would never trust my memory.
3- I left my bike on the sidestand for this and a little oil did come out. Be prepared. You might drain the oil first, I did not.
Carefully tug and pull on the side cover to remove it. Use a mallet or a hammer and a scrap wood drift to get it loose. Once loose, the cover pulls right off.
Then carefully scrap off any gasket goo on the cover and the side case. My understanding is the black thing is a sound baffle which some people remove. I did not.
4- Remove the clutch spring bolts. Nothing will come flying off as you loosen these but there is some spring pressure so pushing ‘down’ while loosening does help.
5- Remove the.. I dunno.. pressure plate? It pulls right off. The bearing is in the middle with a hollow post the pushrod seats into. The bearing and post should slide out pretty easily. I had to give mine the slightest tap to get it out at the very end.
6- Tap the post out of the bearing. I set the bearing on the ‘pressure plate’ and put a hex socket on the end of the rod, then hit it with a hammer.
7- Tap the post into the new bearing. This was a little more complicated. I set a socket down that was the same size as the inner bearing race. Put a deep socket over the post, which rested nicely on the shoulder. Then carefully carefully tapped the post into the bearing.
8- Reassemble the same way you took apart. Make sure when you put the clutch back together, the tabs in the clutch line up with the cut outs in the pressure plate. If you don’t, it’ll bolt on and feel OK, until you try to pull the clutch.
9- I used a CA Cycleworks gasket. From here it’s just a matter of bolting the side cover back on, bolts use 6 ft/lbs.
<sorry no picture>
It’s not hard, but there is a lot going on. As always, go slow, be careful, take notes and pictures if you need to, tighten to appropriate torque values, work at your own risk, and if you’re overwhelmed call in a professional.